Aleppo to Palmyra is five hours by bus. We stopped midway at Hama, which apparently gets some Old Testament mention as Hamat. Besides a chance to stretch, Hama offered us a chance to see some thousand-year-old water wheels. These giant wooden wheels still lift water from the “lake” up into a stone aqueduct. And as they work, they groan—a sound that reminds one of the Ents in the Lord of the Rings. This stop was profound in no way at all. But if you’re going to stretch your legs in a small Syrian city, why not do it where there’s a don’t-see-that-everyday sight waiting to be beheld?
The next stretch of road saw me enjoy some wonderful visiting. My eyes didn’t see how it happened, but the next time I looked out my window, all traces of green had vanished and been replaced by desert as far as one could see. Sometime after noon, we arrived on the outskirts of Palmyra, the most eastern point on our itinerary. A decent lunch preceded the main course of the day—the ruins of ancient Palmyra.



