Amman to Petra

On our way out of Amman, we were bus-toured through the newest and wealthiest part of the city.  Many of the homes in that area are worth over $1 000 000 US.  Mingled among the homes are a number of embassies from around the globe.  The American embassy is especially large, and especially guarded as well.  Several blocks away, an even larger embassy is being constructed by Saudi Arabia.  Then it was highway time.  An hour south on the King’s Highway, the world’s oldest and most continuously used communication route (first mentioned in Genesis 14), would deliver us to Mount Nebo.

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Not Quite TSN

Last night, I was flipping through the hotel’s TV channels in a restful moment.  I’d noticed on a paper that they had three sports networks.  Might I catch some NBA Playoffs?  Surely not hockey.  Even the Middle East’s version of Sportscenter would be a great.

Channel 1: Soccer

Channel 2: Soccer

Channel 3: Camel Racing (with no riders!)

So whatever you’re watching tonight, enjoy it on my behalf!

A Cashier in Amman

On our first evening in Amman, I ventured to a supermarket with a few others.  One was a middle-aged lady, who was shopping for a notebook.  The store reminded me greatly of time spent in China.  The first floor was a supermarket, the second was everything else.  Upstairs, every little section had a man at a desk.  If you wanted an item from his section, he filled out a bill for you.  You then walked to a cashier who manned all the money on the floor.  Once he was paid, you were set free with your goods.

So my companion, having never been in this place, approaches the till with her purchase.

“Two and half dinars,” he totals.

“Two and a half dollars,” she muses to herself, more repeating the total with her familiar currency attached than actually trying to adjust the price.

Disdain-filled face and wounding voice, he replied flatly, “Dinars, not dollars.  This is Jordan, not America.”

Without even looking up, he made change and handed it to her.

The whole encounter happened quickly enough to snap our heads back and make us wonder.

I’ve never known anything but exceptional hospitality in Jordan, but this moment showed something else: Maybe a Jordanian tired of tourists, maybe a cashier in need of a holiday, maybe little more than a crusty fellow, or maybe something altogether different.

Whatever the case, he’s locked himself into a few bytes of my mind’s memory, in less-than-flattering fashion.

Amman and Area

This is the first point along our trip when we have stayed in the same spot for two consecutive nights—there’s something luxurious about that simple detail.  That meant we had fewer miles to cover today, and a less-demanding-than-usual itinerary.

With breakfast finished, we departed at 8:00 AM.  An hour on the bus, and we arrived at “Bethany Beyond the Jordan”.  Yes, that’s the name on the maps.  The tradition of this as the site of Jesus’ baptism is very strong.  Continue reading

Jerash to Amman

From Jerash, we “backtracked” northwest into the very tip of the Jordanian map.  The site to be visited: Umm Quais.  Umm Quais used to go by the name Gedara, and it was one of the ten cities comprising the Decapolis.  From the peak of these ruins, some Roman but more Byzantine built on top of the Roman, one could see the east side of the Sea of Galilee, the northern stretch of the Jordan Valley, and the peaks and plateaus of the Golan Heights.  Biblical connections aside, it was a lovely landscape.  It is also one of the areas that gets plenty of mention in any present-day discussion on the Palestine-Israel conflict.

After our Jordanian guide Rami showed us around, we sat down in a shady corner of the outdoor museum as Dr. Paul shared some thoughts.  On an aside, our guide Rami’s middle name is Issa, which is the Arabic name for Jesus.  He is a Christian, as well as a very charismatic young man, skilled in English and well-trained as a guide.  Charles says that he’s apparently “a rising star” in Jordanian guide circles, and I wouldn’t doubt that it’s true.

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