From Jerash, we “backtracked” northwest into the very tip of the Jordanian map.  The site to be visited: Umm Quais.  Umm Quais used to go by the name Gedara, and it was one of the ten cities comprising the Decapolis.  From the peak of these ruins, some Roman but more Byzantine built on top of the Roman, one could see the east side of the Sea of Galilee, the northern stretch of the Jordan Valley, and the peaks and plateaus of the Golan Heights.  Biblical connections aside, it was a lovely landscape.  It is also one of the areas that gets plenty of mention in any present-day discussion on the Palestine-Israel conflict.

After our Jordanian guide Rami showed us around, we sat down in a shady corner of the outdoor museum as Dr. Paul shared some thoughts.  On an aside, our guide Rami’s middle name is Issa, which is the Arabic name for Jesus.  He is a Christian, as well as a very charismatic young man, skilled in English and well-trained as a guide.  Charles says that he’s apparently “a rising star” in Jordanian guide circles, and I wouldn’t doubt that it’s true.

On a further aside Continue reading →

We woke up to a desert wind whipping through the ruins of Palmyra.  After a quick breakfast, our bus departed for Deir Mar Musa (Monastery of St. Moses) near the city of Homs.  This monastery was recently featured in National Geographic (June ’09) for the efforts made there towards Christian-Muslim dialogue.  The building itself dates back to the 6^th century and is named, not for “Exodus Moses”, but for Moses, the son of a king in what is now Ethiopia.  He chose monastic life over the throne.  The monastery functioned in varying capacities until the 1830’s when it was finally abandoned.

In the 1980’s, it was rediscovered by an Italian former Jesuit.  With help from local community and foreign funding, he renovated the site and had it reconsecrated for use.  Today it draws in everyone from Christian pilgrims to backpackers to curious Muslims to groups like our own.  Picturesque and isolated, it was worth our short visit… and the steep, stone, 380-step hike required to get there.

Another hour down the road Continue reading →